Thursday, September 17, 2026

Artist Cj Hendry’s collaboration with K-beauty brand Sulwhasoo now open at NY’s Brant Foundation.
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Cj Hendry and Korean luxury beauty brand Sulwhasoo have unveiled Secret Garden, a collaborative installation on view at the Brant Foundation Art Study Center in Manhattan’s East Village through September 20th. Inspired by the hidden garden at The House of Sulwhasoo Bukchon, the brand’s flagship destination in Seoul, the installation is built from flat-pack wooden sculptures and puzzle-like forms that coalesce into a forest-like landscape visitors can walk through, draw on, and color. Sulwhasoo presents the project as part of their global “Beauty Crafted in Time” campaign, which marks 60 years of the brand’s research into ginseng.

Visitors receive a complimentary box of custom crayons to color the structures and make their own drawings within the installation. When heading out, visitors are given a co-branded tote containing a sample of Sulwhasoo’s Concentrated Ginseng Rejuvenating Cream, alongside limited-edition items Hendry designed for the partnership, available for purchase on-site. “Secret Garden is about taking something that begins as an individual piece and seeing how it becomes something much larger when everything comes together,” Hendry said in a statement. “I loved the idea of creating a garden that people could actually enter, explore and make their own through color and drawing.”

“Sulwhasoo has always believed that true beauty is crafted over time—shaped by care, intention, and the patience to allow something meaningful to unfold,” said Emily Coppock, Sulwhasoo’s U.S. General Manager, in a statement. She added that Hendry “felt like a natural partner,” calling her work’s ability “to transform time, precision, and process into something joyful and unexpected,” a fitting reflection of the anniversary campaign. Following its New York run, Secret Garden will travel to Seoul for a presentation from September 30th through October 8th.

The installation is the latest in a run of experiential projects the Australian, New York–based artist has staged across the city this year, including “Pastel,” an interactive bead-pit installation at Salon 94 Design in August, and her recurring Flower Market, which returns to Rockefeller Center’s Center Plaza September 24th through 27th.



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From Miuccia Prada to Jonathan Anderson, 10 Fashion Designers Who Collect Art
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With the exception of nature, art is arguably fashion’s most enduring source of inspiration. Throughout history, designers have turned to paintings, sculptures, weavings, and other media, whose prints and patterns, contours and compositions, are echoed in their garments.

The fruitful relationship between both creative fields has spawned several exhibitions this year alone. Most notable of them is The Met Costume Institute’s spring 2026 blockbuster, “Costume Art,” while other highlights include “Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art” at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum and “Art X Fashion” at the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology.

Parallel to the surge of fashion exhibitions, cultural institutions have become draws for fashion brands to host their runway shows. Likewise, it seems each season brings a fresh handful of artist collaborations.

Art has undeniably become the ultimate cultural currency for fashion brands; however, for several designers, art has always played an integral role in their personal lives. Many notable names have filled their homes with exquisite objects that naturally mirror their eye for color and form. Several describe collecting as an “addiction,” whether it’s for blue-chip contemporary art or charming mementos encountered during travels.

Proving how art goes beyond the runway, the following designers take patronage to the next level. Some have made their collections public; others have deliberately used their platform to elevate undersung and up-and-coming talents. All have made their homes bespoke havens for visual inspiration through the works with which they choose to surround themselves.

Below, we spotlight 10 fashion visionaries whose love of art extends well beyond the runway.


Miuccia Prada

Miuccia Prada, 2017
Martin Schoeller
CAMERA WORK

Exhibition view featuring Alberto Burri, Plastica, 1962 and Alberto Burri, Plastica 8, 1963, 1962-1963
Alberto Burri
Fondazione Prada

Collecting has long been a serious enterprise for Miuccia Prada and her husband Patrizio Bertelli, who began purchasing art during the early 1990s.

With a predilection for the avant-garde, they became early collectors of works by Damien Hirst, Carsten Höller, and Anish Kapoor, while also being drawn to Italian artists, such as Lucio Fontana and Alberto Burri. In 2020, Prada told Numéro about the process of educating herself on art and eventually forming friendships with artists was rigorous yet rewarding: “Getting into a relationship with art is like starting one with an extremely intelligent person: it opens up new horizons for you.”

In 1993, Prada and Bertelli established PradaMilanoArte, which exhibited and published catalogues of contemporary art. Two years later, the project became Fondazione Prada, which now operates two venues in Milan (the famed Rem Koolhaas–designed flagship opened in 2015) and one in Venice. While the spaces feature works from Prada and Bertelli’s extensive collection (artists include Robert Gober, Louise Bourgeois, and Walter De Maria), their rich program frequently showcases loaned pieces. The foundation’s repertoire has expanded to encompass architecture, cinema, science, and technology.

Unsurprisingly, the fashion designer has collaborated with countless artists at Prada (the label’s co-creative director, Raf Simons, is also an avid art collector). Miu Miu, Prada’s sister label that is more geared toward the female gaze, has provided yet another outlet for the Italian entrepreneur to share her passion for the arts. In 2011, Miu Miu introduced the Miu Miu Women’s Tales short-film series, spotlighting female filmmakers and perspectives. Miu Miu has also been the official partner of the Art Basel Paris Public Program since 2024.


Dries Van Noten

One of this year’s buzziest openings was Fondazione Dries Van Noten in Venice, unveiled just in time for the city’s Biennale in May. After stepping down as creative director of his eponymous label in 2024, the Belgian designer diverted his attention to restoring Palazzo Pisani Moretta, a historic 15th-century palazzo on the Grand Canal, with his partner Patrick Vangheluwe.

“The Only True Protest is Beauty,” the foundation’s inaugural show, was curated by Van Noten and Geert Bruloot, who organized “The Antwerp Six,” the radical group of Belgian fashion designers, including Van Noten, that emerged during the 1980s. The show featured more than 200 objects, including archival Christian Lacroix and Comme des Garçons looks, alongside cutting-edge design works by Misha Kahn, poignant sculpture by Joyce J. Scott, macabre jewelry by Attilio Codognato, and dozens of curiosities rarely seen in prominent art and fashion spaces.

The intoxicating mix of work on view reflects Van Noten’s idiosyncratic taste, which has long guided his personal collection and designs for his namesake company. “The line in our collection is that there is no line,” Van Noten said in a 2026 video for BRAFA Art Fair, where the designer has sourced numerous objects, such as a pair of mid-17th-century bronze sculptures of Apollo and Mercury. A lover of antiques, Van Noten has also acquired many artworks and furnishings via auction, as well as in frequent travels across the globe.

Van Noten’s artistic influences on his fashion collections were equally diverse. Victor Vasarely, Mark Rothko, Francis Bacon, Elizabeth Peyton, and Pre-Raphaelite painter John Everett Millais have all served as inspiration, as have more niche international practices such as suminagashi, a traditional Japanese marbling technique. Japanese artist Azuma Makoto’s frozen floral arrangements melting on the runway made Van Noten’s spring/summer 2017 collection particularly memorable. Additionally, Van Noten introduced an impressive in-store gallery in the company’s Los Angeles boutique, which has staged shows by Dustin Yellin, Laila Gohar, Martin Creed, and Brian Rochefort, among others.


Marc Jacobs

During his tenure as creative director of Louis Vuitton from 1997–2013, Marc Jacobs catapulted fashion-art partnerships into the mainstream, thanks to iconic collaborations with artists like Stephen Sprouse, Takashi Murakami, Richard Prince, and Yayoi Kusama. Jacobs has continued tapping artists he admires, such as Genieve Figgis, Rachel Feinstein, Marilyn Minter, Derrick Adams, and David Shrigley for his namesake label.

In recent years, he’s found a muse in Anna Weyant, who painted his portrait for the cover of Vanity Fair’s Style 2026 issue, published this August (the story coincides with Jacobs’s sale of Marc Jacobs International). Earlier this year, Jacobs commissioned Weyant to make paintings for his spring 2026 show. A few months prior, the duo collaborated on a two-day pop-up exhibition with The Cultivist and Capital One, in which they transformed Manhattan’s Academy Mansion into a life-size dollhouse. And in 2024, as guest editor for Vogue’s December 2024 issue, Jacobs invited Weyant to paint model Kaia Gerber as one of the issue’s alternate covers.

After moving to a Frank Lloyd Wright–designed house in Rye, New York, Jacobs sold the contents of his West Village townhouse at Sotheby’s in 2019. Assembled over nearly 20 years were artworks by Ed Ruscha, whom Jacobs called “the greatest living American artist,” John Currin, Peyton, Lisa Yuskavage, and Urs Fischer; important design works by François-Xavier Lalanne, Jean-Michel Frank, and Jean Dunand; as well as a trove of Boucheron jewels. Also featured were works by Karen Kilimnik and Mike Kelley, the first artists Jacobs collected.

In terms of filling his current home, the designer told Vogue in 2024, “I daydream about continuing to fill this reimagined interior with art, Arts and Crafts, Deco, Chinese and Japanese art, and Roman antiquities.”


Tory Burch

The collecting bug runs in Tory Burch’s family, but like her parents, acquiring art was a matter of style, not value. The designer, who was an art history major, told Gagosian Quarterly in 2025, “When I look at the art I have, it’s so eclectic—everything from Old Masters to Helen Frankenthaler, René Magritte, Peter Doig, Gertrude Abercrombie, Madeline Hewes, Giacometti, Folk Art and flea market finds.”

Antique cow creamers and Indian reverse-glass paintings from her travels delight Burch just as much as Régence chairs from the collection of Hubert de Givenchy or a bronze apple inside which Claude Lalanne cast the lips of Burch and her husband Pierre-Yves Roussel. Burch is additionally well-versed in design, with pieces by Diego Giacometti, Karl Springer, Carlo Bugatti, and Tony Duquette in her collection.

Reflecting her pottery and china obsession, Burch collaborated with Dodie Thayer, known as the “Pottery Queen of Palm Beach,” on a lettuce-ware collection for her homeware line. In terms of fashion, Burch has designed notable collections inspired by historical women artists, such as Georgia O’Keeffe and Sonia Delaunay, or in partnership with contemporary female artists, like Francesca DiMattio (the look Burch designed with friend Rashid Johnson for director Janicza Bravo at the 2025 Met Gala is another standout). Always looking for opportunities to uplift women’s voices and creativity, Burch is notably a major donor of the forthcoming Smithsonian Institution’s American Women’s History Museum, as well as a member of its advisory board.


Duro Olowu

One look at Duro Olowu’s Instagram, and it’s clear the designer is a serious art aficionado—it’s no surprise with legendary curator and director of the Studio Museum in Harlem Thelma Golden as his wife. Still, the Lagos-born, London-based designer is a lifelong collector of photography, ceramics, and decorative objects in his own right. Having traveled frequently to London and Geneva with his family, Olowu was exposed to a wide array of visual culture, as illustrated by his personal collection. Rare books and African textiles meet paintings and sculpture spanning continents and periods. Among his favorite contemporary pieces are those by Lisa Brice, Michael Armitage, and longtime collaborator Lynette Yiadom-Boakye.

Olowu’s fashion collections have culled inspiration from Kees van Dongen, Édouard Vuillard, the Surrealists, Barkley L. Hendricks, and Baya, the self-taught Algerian artist who exhibited her paintings of kaleidoscopically clad women at just 16, capturing the attention of Pablo Picasso. When it comes to displaying his vividly patterned garments in his London boutique, Olowu opts to juxtapose them with treasured possessions, ranging from artworks by Stanley Whitney to mid-century Yoruba beaded “Diviner’s” bags and Vallauris pottery.

As a curator, Olowu follows a similar approach. Since 2012, Salon 94 has been a consistent venue for him to organize shows marrying his own designs with antique African garments and works by artists that inspire him. In 2022, he curated the first New York solo exhibition of Chicago artist Robert Earl Paige, also known for introducing West African–inspired textiles to American audiences during the 1970s, at Salon 94. “I always feel it’s important for any show I curate to reflect this deep conversation between all the mediums that continue to exist amongst artists in real life,” he told Aperture in 2024.

Two other seminal museum moments include “Making and Unmaking”—a show that centered the practices and processes of artists who use textiles, that Olowu curated in 2016 at London’s Camden Arts Centre—and “Duro Olowu: Seeing Chicago,” a 400-piece exhibition at the Museum of Contemporary Art Chicago. The latter marked the first time a non-art professional guest curated a show in the institution’s 50-year history. In 2022, the Olowu also curated “Duro Olowu Selects” at the Cooper Hewitt Museum where he explored and interpreted select objects from the New York museum’s collection.


Tommy Hilfiger

When it comes to Pop art, Tommy Hilfiger’s credentials reign supreme, and fascinatingly, the designer’s ties to the movement run deep. After meeting during the late 1970s, Andy Warhol invited Hilfiger, then just finding his footing in New York, to his famed Factory. “I couldn’t afford any of [his art] back then, even though it was very inexpensive. But I loved the fact that he brought fashion, art, pop culture and entertainment together. I always thought when I started making money, I’d collect art and buy Warhols,” Hilfiger told DuJour.

The opportunity came around the time that the designer launched his eponymous company in 1985, thanks to his friend Prince Rupert Loewenstein, who was the financial advisor for the Rolling Stones. Hilfiger bought a series of Warhol’s Mick Jagger screenprints, which both the Stones’ frontman and the artist had signed.

Tommy Hilfiger, New York, 1996
Harry Benson
Staley-Wise Gallery

Hilfiger later sold the series in a 2021 auction of his and wife Dee Ocleppo Hilfiger’s collection at Sotheby’s, which also included works by the likes of Roy Lichtenstein and Robert Indiana. The couple had previously sold two collaborative paintings by Warhol and Jean-Michel Basquiat at Sotheby’s—on the occasion, he told the auction house, “What really impressed me was that [Warhol] was the purveyor of Pop culture, and what I call FAME: fashion, art, music, entertainment, and he really inspired and influenced me tremendously.” As evidenced by their home tours and other auction sales, the Hilfigers have amassed works by Keith Haring, Hirst, Jean Dubuffet, and Tracey Emin, among many others.

Hilfiger themed his fall celebrity-filled 2022 campaign around Warhol’s Factory, while the spring 2023 collection had a nautical Pop treatment, recalling the artist’s time in Montauk. Hilfiger has also tapped Richard Quinn for a limited-edition collection, as well as the estate of Haring.


Jonathan Anderson

In his personal collection, as well as throughout his time at Loewe, Dior, and his namesake label, Jonathan Anderson has proven himself as the king of craft. The Northern Irish designer inherited his grandfather’s ceramics obsession and counts Lucie Rie, John Ward, Jennifer Lee, and Sara Flynn among his favorite practitioners. Other areas of his collection run the gamut. Works by Peter Hujar, David Wojnarowicz, Paul Thek, and George Dureau speak to Anderson’s interest in the theme of gender fluidity, while Arts and Crafts furnishings (especially made by Charles Rennie Mackintosh) feed his passion for the homemade.

As Loewe’s creative director from 2013–25, Anderson embraced Spain’s rich history of artisanship and Surrealism, churning out one viral trompe l’oeil garment and accessory after another. He also worked with or created collections inspired by Vincent van Gogh, William Morris, Lynda Benglis, Anthea Hamilton, Ken Price, and Joe Brainard. One of his greatest contributions, however, was establishing the influential Loewe Foundation Craft Prize in 2016 to foster new talent across the applied arts.

For his Dior haute couture debut in early 2026, Anderson channeled the bulbous vessels of one of his all-time favorite ceramists, Magdalene A.N. Odundo, into voluminous, sculptural dresses—the collaboration was then exhibited in a weeklong presentation at the Musée Rodin. This July, Anderson again worked with Benglis, another beloved artist (he owns more than five pieces), perfectly capturing the movement and luster of her wired sculptures in striking garments and headpieces.

For JW Anderson, his namesake brand, the designer has partnered with the Tom of Finland Foundation, the estate of David Wojnarowicz, and Gilbert & George. Around the same time he transitioned to Dior, Anderson shifted the direction of JW Anderson, leaning into his love of culture by selling art and objects he specially selected for both the company’s brick-and-mortar and online stores.

It’s far from the first time Anderson has put on his curatorial hat. He has curated shows bringing together art and fashion for the Hepworth Wakefield in northern England, as well as London’s Offer Waterman gallery. In 2025, he also organized an exhibition of work by Winifred Nicholson and Andrew Cranston at the Holburne Museum in Bath, England, while for London’s Thomas Dane Gallery, he and Kenny Schacter co-curated a Paul Thek solo show.


Ulla Johnson

All the years that Ulla Johnson’s mother (a painter, restorer, and conservator) dragged her to museums around New York City paid off. In 2019, the fashion designer told Architectural Digest that she was obsessed with the pioneering fiber artist Sheila Hicks since she was five. Now the 92-year-old artist’s woven works have pride of place in Johnson’s home, shared with her children and art-consultant husband, Zach Miner. With works by Françoise Grossen and Analia Saban, the couple’s collection is a testament to Johnson’s passion for textiles and supporting living and women artists (her dream is to build an important collection of fiber art by women artists for public view).

Elsewhere in Johnson’s collection are artworks by Kathleen Ryan, Ugo Rondinone, and Marina Rheingantz, as well as furnishings by design icons such as Charlotte Perriand, George Nakashima, Pierre Paulin, and Mario Bellini. All are layered with baskets, ceramics, and shells found during travels, echoing the bohemian spirit of the designer’s ethereal garments.

Art is often the starting point for Johnson’s fashion collections. Her impressive list of contemporary artist collaborators includes Alma Allen, Shara Hughes, and Julie Hamisky, who, like her grandmother Claude Lalanne, electroplates flora and fauna into enchanting jewelry. Johnson additionally spent several years working with the Pollock-Krasner Foundation and Helen Frankenthaler Foundation to conceive collections inspired by the pioneering female Abstract Expressionists. The designer told Gagosian Quarterly of her spring 2026 muse: “With Frankenthaler, the way she worked with the canvas—the putting it on the floor, this sort of thrust from the shoulder, the way the paint moves, the soak-stain technique—it just felt so applicable to fabric. And there’s this sense of being borderless, which is also how we work.”


Erdem

Erdem, 2019
Erwin Olaf
Patricia Conde Galería

Warhol also played a key role in Erdem’s career, as one of the first drawings he bought, nearly 20 years ago, was a 1950s illustration of a woman in profile by the artist. After initially collecting contemporary photography (including works by Nan Goldin, Rineke Dijkstra, and Candida Höfer), the Turkish British designer gradually expanded into other categories and time periods.

“Older paintings, drawings, and sculpture entered the collection and began to sit alongside contemporary work. I think that changed the way I looked at everything. The collection has grown very instinctively. One thing leads to another, often in ways you couldn’t have anticipated,” Erdem told Artsy, citing, for example, that he went through a long phase of collecting busts, particularly those by Wilhelm Lehmbruck. “Pavel Tchelitchew and Patrick Procktor are important to me, as is that interconnected world of Tchelitchew, George Platt Lynes and Jared French. There’s also Derek Jarman, Wolfgang Tillmans, Cecil Beaton, Kaye Donachie and David Hockney. I’ve recently been collecting Lisa Brice too.”

Since he founded his brand in 2005, the designer has frequently woven artistic influences into his practice. As with his personal collection, Erdem, a self-proclaimed bibliophile, loves nothing more than a research rabbit hole when developing his fashion collections. They are frequently based on intriguing female heroines throughout history, including Deborah, the late dowager duchess of Devonshire (a major collector herself), which inspired an exhibition on their connection at Chatsworth in 2024.

Another standout was Erdem’s spring 2023 collection, which shined a light on cultural preservation and restoration based on the designer’s visits with experts at the British Museum, Tate Britain, the National Gallery, and the V&A. For his fall 2025 collection, Erdem collaborated with Donachie, who was a few years ahead of him at London’s Royal College of Art, and from whom he previously commissioned a portrait of his late mother for his boutique. This summer, it was announced that another commission, the artist’s portrait of the designer himself, has entered the permanent collection of London’s National Portrait Gallery.


Cynthia Rowley

When Cynthia Rowley started dating her now-husband Bill Powers during the early 2000s, it was love at first artwork upon learning that they each acquired works from the same Chris Johnson drawings series.

Having come from a family of painters, Rowley originally aspired to follow in her mother’s and grandmothers’ footsteps, and she attended the School of the Art Institute of Chicago. Realizing fashion was her calling, she has built a life pouring her love of art into her designs and personal collection, built with Powers, the founder of New York’s Half Gallery. The couple also founded the print edition company Exhibition A in 2010, which they sold in 2019.

Their home aesthetic is as bright and pattern-filled as Rowley’s line. One highlight is a Peyton portrait of a teenage Queen Elizabeth. “I love that drawing because it feels like something I would have hoped to do when I was in art school,” Rowley told the New York Times in 2018 of the work, featured in the artist’s first show at the Chelsea Hotel in 1991. Other contemporary pieces in the collection are by Richard Prince, John Currin, George Condo, Henry Taylor, Dana Schutz, Rob Pruitt, Tom Sachs, and Rene Ricard, while earlier iterations of their kids’ rooms featured works by Japanese artists such as Murakami and Yoshitomo Nara.

Rowley has produced a handful of limited-edition products, including a collaboration with Olaf Breuning, sold through Gagosian Shop during the 2010s. She has also teamed up with artists Will Cotton, Ryan McNamara, and Josh Smith on clothing, paintings, and performance art.



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Wednesday, September 16, 2026

Rising Painter Mia Middleton Seeks Meaning in the Grief of Miscarriage
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In Mia Middleton’s spectral new paintings, an unseen figure seems to linger just out of sight.

This absent character becomes a centrifugal force, pulling at the world around her, unraveling the rules of physics and biology. Birds fall to the ground, bright skies darken, and flowers grow in unexpected places.

Over the past five years, Middleton, who is based in Lisbon, has earned a reputation for her cinematic, small-scale paintings. These are enigmatic scenes—unworn shoes, the nape of a neck, a lone balloon—painted in theatrical hues of crimson and gray. Each work feels like a small pinprick.

The Interval, 2026
Mia Middleton
Roberts Projects

Screen Memory, 2026
Mia Middleton
Roberts Projects

Now the artist is bringing these effects into a much larger scale in “Summoning Cleo,” her second solo exhibition with Roberts Projects, which opens in Los Angeles later this week. It’s an effort to grapple with equally enormous experiences of grief and loss that presented deep, existential challenges.

Over the past few years, Middleton experienced two miscarriages—losses that profoundly rocked her world view. “My beliefs and faith were tested in a way they’d never been before,” she said on a video call. She was, she explained, “confronting [her] own mortality in ways I hadn’t before.”

The artist and her partner began referring to their fertility journey as “summoning Cleo,” referencing an imaginary baby name. “The term ‘summoning’ felt right because we were doing all this hidden, ineffable ritual magic to try to succeed,” she explained.

Middleton said she felt her previous belief systems, a mix of philosophical beliefs which she called “syncretic,” collapsed under the weight of her losses and their compounded grief. “They weren’t built for what I was going through,” she said.

The show’s titular painting is based on a 1949 photograph of a group of people outside at night standing together, with arms linked, doing a dance. “It’s got a sense of ritual, almost like pagan ritual in it,” said the artist.

She also leans on folkloric influences to conjure her sense of unseen forces at work around her. One painting, Augury (all works 2026), references the ancient Roman practice of reading birds in flight for omens. It shows a small black bird dead on the ground, with two large drops of blood nearby.

Middleton also found meaning in the lives and writings of the saints. She took particular inspiration from Saint Catherine of Bologna, who believed divinity could be reached through hardship. Referring to Saint Catherine’s book The Seven Spiritual Weapons, one painting in the show is titled Fifth Weapon, which the saint calls “the remembrance that we must die—an omen of mortality not as despair, but as what clarifies life.” The painting shows the darkened silhouette of a man in a hat.

Cherub (Puppenkind), 2026
Mia Middleton
Roberts Projects

A Concentrated Body, 2026
Mia Middleton
Roberts Projects

In contrast to her previous works, these paintings can be large, stretching up to 45 by 58 inches. Before she started, the artist assumed scaling up would mean working more slowly, “bit by bit.” Instead, she found that approach broke the fluidity of her process of wet-on-wet painting. Instead, she had to treat the larger canvases the same way she treats her small ones: a single sustained session, sometimes preceded by a week of mental preparation, followed by long 10- to 12-hour days of painting.

Other elements of her process have remained the same. Middleton has often based paintings on vintage photographs, a process that continues here, and reflects her interest in archives and the past. In 19th- and early 20th-century photographs she finds a peculiar relationship to truth. She sees these images as at once constructed and stripped bare. “People were so exposed in front of the lens at that time,” explained the artist, referring to them as “time capsules carrying gestures and atmospheres forward from another world’s logic.” In the painting A Broken Step, Middleton depicts the body of a woman paused midstep. The painting is drawn from a theater photograph of Le Train Bleu (1924), a one-act ballet choreographed by Bronislava Nijinska, and offers a haunting, grayscale image of hesitation.

While her paintings of single, evocative subjects had long explored ideas of fragmentation, she felt for the first time that she could only focus on small shards of experience. “It wasn’t just a theoretical or ontological orientation for me anymore,” she said. “These were the smallest units of meaning that I actually had to work with.”

“When you’re so depressed, so dark, only the most insistent things will pass through to you that will actually allow themselves to be made,” explained Middleton.

As a result, she found herself gathering scraps of ritual rather than committing to one system. She turned to Gaelic traditions, too, as in Leaba Bríde. In the tradition, a small bed with a doll is left by the hearth overnight as a fertility charm, inviting the blessing of Saint Brigid. In Middleton’s painting, the doll and the saint are absent, but the bed itself has become the offering, its blankets giving way to a tangle of wildflowers. The last painting completed for “Summoning Cleo,” the image is not one of healing so much as rebirth and possibility where we least expect it.



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New artist book, featuring behind-the-scenes photos of Obama’s campaign, to be published this fall.
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A new book on U.K. artist Nicola Green’s “In Seven Days…”, a print series chronicling Barack Obama’s 2008 campaign, will publish this October from HENI.

It will be the first major publication devoted to Green’s series, offering the first in-depth examination of its full scope and publishing archival material including sketches, drawings, and previously unseen photographs Green took on the campaign trail. Between 2008 and 2009, the artist and social historian was given unprecedented access to Obama’s campaign, election, and inauguration. Green was a special guest across six trips, including the Democratic National Convention in Denver, campaign stops in Concord and Philadelphia, election night in Chicago, and two visits to Washington, D.C., including the inauguration festivities. Green’s husband, the U.K. politician David Lammy, met Obama at Harvard Law School and has remained a friend of his for more than three decades.

That access culminated in seven silkscreen prints, titled Day 1, Light through Day 7, Peace. The Metropolitan Museum of Art has called the series “an artistic and historic masterpiece.” Made with water-based enamel ink and 24-karat gold leaf on Coventry Rag cotton paper, the prints were produced in an edition of 20 at Axelle Editions in Brooklyn and an edition of seven at London Print Studio.

The forthcoming book pairs an opening statement from Obama and artist statements for each print with 10 new essays, including contributions from Serpentine Galleries artistic director Hans Ulrich Obrist, former Obama national security advisor Ben Rhodes, Obama Presidential Center Museum founding director Dr. Louise Bernard, London’s National Portrait Gallery’s curatorial and collections director Dr. Flavia Frigeri, and former Library of Congress curator Katherine Blood. It also draws on Arkhe, Green's seven-part archival work, which situates the prints alongside artistic touchstones including Raphael, Claude Monet, Francis Bacon, Andy Warhol, Alexander Calder, Robert Rauschenberg, Kerry James Marshall, Joe Overstreet, and Rosalyn Drexler.

The series is held in the permanent collections of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the U.K. Government Art Collection, the Library of Congress, and Washington’s National Portrait Gallery, and is currently on view at the newly opened Obama Presidential Center in Chicago. The book also chronicles Green's two-decade relationship with the former president, tracing photographs from the 2008 campaign trail through election night in Grant Park, the 2009 inaugural celebration, the Oval Office presentation of the finished series just before he left office, and a 2021 reunion at the Library of Congress, which acquired the series in 2019.



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Tuesday, September 15, 2026

Pope Leo XIV opens a new installation by JR on Vatican Library facade.
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Pope Leo XIV marked his 71st birthday on September 14th by opening “AQVA. Catastrophe and Wonder,” a new exhibition at the Vatican Apostolic Library anchored by a monumental installation by the French artist JR. The work, titled Diluvium, stretches nearly 230-feet across the library’s 16th-century facade. The work depicts a towering black-and-white wave drawn from Gustave Doré’s 1866 wood engraving of the biblical flood. It is the first site-specific art installation ever commissioned for the building’s exterior.

“Catastrophe and Wonder” will explore historical threats to the written word—water, fire, light, insects, and human intervention—as allegories for humanity's fears and hopes. The water-themed inaugural show, on view to the public from September 25 through May 14, 2027, pairs JR’s massive installation with another work by the artist, Undae, an installation in the Barberini Room showing a black-and-white video of a wave recorded in Brazil, along with a typography-based series by American artist Bill Moran, gastronomic writing by Italian chef Fulvio Pierangelini, and Vatican holdings including two copies of Ippolito Salviani’s landmark 1557 study Aquatilium animalium historia, a treatise on fish. The show is curated by Don Giacomo Cardinali, Simona De Crescenzo, Francesca Giannetto, and Delio Proverbio, and organized in partnership with Fondazione Roma and Intesa Sanpaolo.

JR described the project as originating in the library’s own anxieties. “The library at the Vatican came to see me because, for them, water represents their biggest fear,” the artist told designboom. “It’s the fact that one day water comes and takes away all the memory ... all the trace of a civilization that they’ve been preserving.”

He said the wave’s meaning extends beyond that literal threat, linking it to climate change, political polarization, and “the wave of AI itself.” In a statement, the artist added: “There is something almost mystical about books. These fragile objects contain the thoughts of the world; they carry voices, stories and knowledge across centuries. Their strength is immense, and so is their vulnerability: paper resists none of the elements. By bringing a wave into the Vatican Library, Diluvium and Undae confront this paradox. What can survive, and what do we choose to preserve?”

The inauguration marked Pope Leo’s first visit to the library since his election in 2025. In remarks at the opening, he described the Vatican Apostolic Library as “a heart,” explaining that “a beating heart is a symbol of life, and it results from two opposing movements, systole and diastole: a contraction and a relaxation, a movement towards the center and another towards the periphery.” Archbishop Giovanni Cesare Pagazzi, the Holy See’s librarian and archivist, told EWTN News that the exhibition’s pairing of centuries-old holdings with contemporary artists demonstrates that “generations are intertwined.”

This isn’t the first time the pontiff has positioned art as a means of communicating complex contemporary issues. In August, Pope Leo announced the Catholic Universities Art Triennial, titled “Exercises in Empathy,” as a salvo against the rise of A.I.



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What Is Gen X Art? Defining the Culture of the “Forgotten Generation”
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Millennials are addicted to social media and avocado toast. Gen Z is terminally online and hates parting their hair on the side.

As a society, we can’t get enough of these generational stereotypes and arguing about whether or not they’re true. The same goes for the art world, where these labels help define new trends. And yet, Gen X has slid under the radar of the generational conversation, a fact which perfectly fits their detachment and avoidance of the mainstream. In the meantime, artists born roughly between 1960 and 1980 have become some of the most powerful artists in the world, having reshaped how we view bodies, media, and irony.

This summer, the Deste Foundation in Athens opened “Gen X: Tales from the Forgotten Generation,” a survey of nearly 50 artists born between 1960 and 1980, drawn entirely from the Dakis Joannou Collection. The show explores how economic precarity, a valorization of slacker culture and rejection of ambition, and global events like the Challenger explosion and the fall of the Berlin Wall all shaped Gen X artmaking. The presentation, which is curated by Massimiliano Gioni, artistic director of New York’s New Museum, with Calvin Wang and Taeyi Kim, runs through November 26, 2026.

The artworks here focus on the generation’s defining characteristics, most notably its permanent ironic stance. A David Shrigley sign that hangs at the entrance, for example, announces “Tonight is cancelled” on one side, “Tomorrow is cancelled” on the other. Elsewhere, Urs Fischer’s surreal, hyperreal bronze sculpture of a red balloon tied to the end of a broom evokes Gen Xers’ detached humor toward everyday labor.

Wall labels, meanwhile, use evocative quotes from ’90s media—sources include Nirvana songs and Douglas Coupland’s defining 1991 novel Generation X. The exhibition unites household names—Kara Walker, Vanessa Beecroft, Matthew Barney, and Wolfgang Tillmans—to explore how the demographic made its own moment. We spoke to Massimiliano Gioni, New Museum director and a Gen Xer himself, about the defining factors of Gen X art and how this “forgotten generation” continues to shape contemporary art and culture. This interview has been condensed and edited for clarity.

Josie Thaddeus-Johns: What made you want to do an exhibition based on Gen X?

Massimiliano Gioni: The show came from a few simple considerations. First of all, we are witnessing a significant shift of power from the baby boomers to Gen X, who are getting to hold more and more influential positions, and, at the same time, media attention in the past few years has been very focused on Gen Y (Millennials) and Gen Z. Somehow, Gen X has drifted in the background, which is appropriate for an age group that in the United States came to be described as the “Forgotten Generation” because of the prevalence of double-income families, in which kids were often left alone to grow up on their own.

Secondly, we are witnessing many technological revolutions now that are perhaps comparable to the birth of the internet in the 1990s, when Gen X learned to coexist with a dramatic technological change: In times of technological upheaval—like the ones we are living through now—maybe we can learn from the experiences of the members of the Generation X, who were able to navigate a deep historical transformation.

JTJ: What themes did you find in Gen X artists’ works?

MG: Gen X was, almost by definition, a generation that was very skeptical of any generalization and refused to be easily identified and branded. It would be ironic—if not brutally cynical—to try and package them in a cohesive and uniformed identity.

Many different themes emerge from the exhibition. First of all, there is a sense of resilience in the way these artists responded to the seismic shifts of their formative years—from the fallout of 1980s economic booms and recessions to the birth of the 24-hour news cycle and the looming shadows of the HIV/AIDS epidemic. They reacted with a trademark mix of self-deprecation, lowbrow aesthetics, irony, and a healthy disregard for institutional convention.

Additionally, we wanted to highlight several parallel currents through the works. The mutated or uncanny body is a recurring presence in the show. Shaped by the anxieties around health crises and early technological shifts, many artists depicted bodies as decaying avatars, metallic cyborgs, or uncanny mutant creatures. The deconstruction of media images is another important thread in the show. Gen X artists fiercely analyzed and appropriated the tropes of the fashion and media industries, adopting a “slacker” cynicism that simultaneously mocked and exposed the machinery of consumer culture.

JTJ: Many of the artists here have defined the contemporary art moment—they’re at the top of their game. Is there a conflict between understanding these “slacker generation” artists who thrive in the margins and seeing them as the influential figures they are?

MG: There is certainly a wonderful irony there, but it’s a productive one. The “slacker” ethos—that posture of detachment, anti-ambition, or skepticism toward traditional corporate success—was originally a coping mechanism for a generation facing economic uncertainty and a saturated media landscape. That these very artists have gone on to shape the backbone of contemporary art proves that their marginal, countercultural postures possessed an enduring critical power. They didn’t necessarily sell out; rather, the mainstream eventually had to catch up to the vernacular of skepticism and fragmentation that they helped invent.

JTJ: How can we interpret Gen X’s dislike of “selling out” in the context of Gen Z and Gen Alpha’s embrace of commercial vernacular?

MG: Gen X’s suspicion of “selling out” was rooted in an analog era where you could still theoretically imagine an outside—an authentic underground untainted by corporate logic. But then again, it was precisely during the peak years of Gen X, at the beginning of the 1990s, that many of us witnessed the end of the very notion of the underground, as most symbolically represented by the band Nirvana becoming an international phenomenon.

Maybe Gen X was less about remaining outside the system and more a premonition of a completely transformed relationship between opposition and acceptance. Irony was the tool through which Gen X could survive this paradoxical situation of being simultaneously inside and outside the mainstream.

JTJ: Final question: Is Gen X misunderstood?

MG: Because they occupy the space between the loud political and cultural footprints of the boomers and the digital natives of later generations, they are often seen as cynical or apathetic. But what this exhibition tries to show is that what looks like apathy is actually a very acute, complex survival mechanism. It’s in Greece that skepticism was invented: the members of Gen X might be the last inheritors of that tradition, which has taught us the importance of doubt and detachment.



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