I stand by what I wrote in 2024: The best way to enjoy the Venice Biennale is not to try to see it all. Despite this, I did try to see as much of the 2026 edition as possible over a week in early May. I did not see everything—it’s not possible, I’ve decided, between 99 national pavilions and an untold number of exhibitions across museums, palazzi, obscure churches, and even a monastic garden. But I saw enough, and spoke to enough fellow art professionals, to know where to steer anyone visiting Venice this year.
The 2026 Venice Biennale, titled “In Minor Keys,” opened May 9 and runs through November 22. Curated by the late Koyo Kouoh and realized by the team she had assembled, the central exhibition unfolds across the Biennale’s two main venues—the Giardini and the Arsenale—alongside dozens of national pavilions. But the Biennale is never confined to these two sites. It spills into collateral exhibitions all over town, sometimes in obscure places you might otherwise walk right past.
This guide isn’t comprehensive. It’s a 48-hour itinerary for anyone short on time or looking for highlights. Depending on your stamina for walking and your appetite for the vaporetto, follow it closely over two days—or treat it as a menu and pick from what sounds best. Andiamo!
Venice tips for first-time visitors
- Double-check opening days and hours and book ahead anything that requires it (like The Holy See Pavilion and the Fondazione Dries Van Noten—see below). Shows are open through the run of the Biennale, unless specified otherwise.
- Plot your route in advance. Google Maps and the labyrinthine streets can turn a 23-minute walk into an hourlong logic puzzle. Save this Google Maps list to your phone.
- If you’re taking the vaporetto more than a couple of times, buy an unlimited card.
- Most importantly, leave room to take in Venice itself—ideally with a spritz and a few cicchetti. I’ve also folded in drinks and dining picks from Venice locals below.
Day 1: Giardini, Arsenale, Castello, and Cannaregio
Morning: Giardini
Start at the Giardini and (to return to my opening point) resist the urge to see everything. “In Minor Keys,” as the title suggests, rewards a slower pace: it’s somber, emotional, poetic over spectacular. For a deeper look at what’s inside, my colleague Josie Thaddeus-Johns wrote a guide to six defining works.
Among the national pavilions, I’d prioritize a handful.
- Japan, Ei Arakawa-Nash, “Grass Babies, Moon Babies”: You temporarily adopt one of 208 baby dolls—each weighted like a four-month-old, wearing tiny sunglasses—change its diaper, then scan a QR code for a poem matched to its birthday. It may sound absurd, but the longer you carry one through the space, the more tender and delightful it becomes.
- Germany, Sung Tieu and Henrike Naumann, “Ruin”: Tieu wraps the pavilion’s Nazi-era façade in a trompe l’oeil mosaic of more than three million tiles, reconstructing the East Berlin housing complex where she grew up. Inside, Naumann’s The Home Front (2026) transforms the central hall into an ideologically loaded East German interior. Naumann died in February at 41, after finalizing the work, which makes the artwork even more moving.
- Austria, Florentina Holzinger, “SEAWORLD VENICE”: Holzinger has turned the Austrian pavilion into a closed-loop system said to be powered by the audience’s bodily waste. Inside, nude performers endure extreme scenarios: submerged in an aquarium tank, riding a jet ski in a flooded room, ringing a giant bell with the force of their bodies. This is not for the faint of heart.
Lunch in Castello
After the Giardini, head to Via Garibaldi (Castello’s main street of bacari, local taverns) for cicchetti, or stop at Paradiso just inside the park. Then walk about 10 minutes to the Arsenale, ideally through the charming neighborhood of Corte Nova.
Afternoon: Arsenale and the Estonian Pavilion
The Arsenale holds the second half of “In Minor Keys,” plus a full slate of national pavilions on the other side of the main exhibition. Among them, I’d prioritize these:
- India, “Geographies of Distance: remembering home”: India’s first pavilion in seven years gathers five artists and extraordinary installations. These include Sumakshi Singh’s life-sized reconstruction of her demolished New Delhi home in embroidered thread hung from the ceiling, Asim Waqif’s bamboo scaffolding, and Ranjani Shettar’s massive floating garland of floral sculptures.
- Argentina, Matías Duville, “Monitor Yin Yang”: Duville’s pavilion centers on a field of bright salt streaked with black charcoal. Visitors stay on white paths while a sound piece from Venetian environmental data deepens the disorientation. This may be the Biennale’s most physically impressive act of drawing.
- Saudi Arabia, Dana Awartani, “May your tears never dry, you who weep over stones”: Visually stunning and devastatingly emotional, the pavilion is filled with more than 29,000 handmade clay bricks forming a raised mosaic floor visitors move alongside, referencing destroyed hammams and mosque floors across Syria, Lebanon, and Palestine.
From the Arsenale’s rear exit, it’s a five-minute walk to Estonia’s off-site pavilion—worth seeking out.
- Estonia, Merike Estna, “The House of Leaking Sky”: Set in a school gymnasium, the off-site pavilion offers both a durational performance and a studio visit. Estna paints throughout the Biennale, working on giant canvases she hangs, then takes down to the floor to pour, swirl, and brush with color. The result vibrates with the energy of an artist who has temporarily uprooted her life for Venice.
Evening: Cannaregio
Hop a vaporetto from Arsenale or Tana to Ferrovia, just in front of Santa Lucia station—about 30 minutes, but worth it.
- The Holy See, “The Ear is the Eye of the Soul.” Book in advance. Just beside the train station, the Holy See pavilion sits in the Mystical Garden of the Discalced Carmelites. Curated by Hans Ulrich Obrist and Ben Vickers, it asks you to put on headphones and stroll through the idyllic garden while an audio experience engulfs you. Commissions by Brian Eno, FKA twigs, Meredith Monk, Patti Smith, and Holly Herndon and Mat Dryhurst, among others, respond to the legacy of 12th-century abbess Saint Hildegard of Bingen. It’s arguably the city’s most transportive contemporary art experience.
From the train station, take a vaporetto to Rialto and walk to Palazzo Soranzo Van Axel (or skip the boat—it’s a 28-minute walk). Your next two stops are close to each other.
- Su Xiaobai, “Alchemical Universe,” at Palazzo Soranzo Van Axel. Set in a 15th-century Gothic palazzo (also the home of Bottega Veneta’s secret, private showroom), the show traces the esteemed Chinese artist’s lush lacquer paintings from 2003 to the present. Curated by LACMA’s Stephen Little and designed by Kulapat Yantrasast of WHY Architecture, it’s both eye-catching and moving.
- “Ethnography of the Body and Material,” at Palazzo Pisani Santa Marina. Presented by the Japanese craft-focused project Go For Kogei, this group show gathers works by 10 Japanese artists with materially rich practices—ceramics, glass, braided rope shoes, and more.
Aperitivi or dinner nearby
From there, it’s a few minutes’ walk to wine bar Ozio in Campo Santa Maria Formosa—a perfect stop before or after dinner. Recommended restaurants 5–6 minutes away include Osteria Giorgione da Masa, Bepi Antico 54, and Promessi Sposi.
Day 2: Dorsoduro, Santa Croce, and San Polo
Morning: Dorsoduro
Begin the day in the neighborhood of Dorsoduro, the site of world-class museums including Gallerie dell’Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, and the Pinault Collection’s Punta della Dogana. I highly recommend visits to these three shows, which sit within a short walk of each other.
- Su Yu-Xin, “Afterstone” at Albion Jeune, Lo Studio (Dorsoduro 928): The exciting rising painter Su Yu-Xin presents over a dozen paintings made with pigments she sources from the landscape around the Pacific Rim, and grinds by hand. The L.A.–based Taiwanese artist reflects on the geopolitical meaning that her colors contain, creating works that are visually striking and embedded with issues of extraction, trade, and imperialism. On view through July 18.
- “Still Joy—From Ukraine into the World” at Palazzo Contarini Polignac: The Ukrainian art organizations PinchukArtCentre and the Victor Pinchuk Foundation are known to present ambitious group shows each biennale and this year is no different. The show presents joy as a vital and radical force in times of war and uncertainty, featuring an international cohort of artists including Tacita Dean, Julian Charrière, Simone Post, Gabrielle Goliath, and more. On view through August 1.
- The Bahamas Pavilion, Lavar Munroe and John Beadle, “In Another Man’s Yard,” San Trovaso Art Space: This posthumous tribute pairs the late John Beadle—who died in 2024 and was originally slated to represent the Bahamas in 2015—with fellow Bahamian artist Lavar Munroe. The artists are both connected through Junkanoo, the country’s centuries-old processional festival. Munroe’s impressive “rush out” installation, built on-site in a single month with materials from Beadle’s studio, anchors the show.
Lunch in Dorsoduro
For a quick, unfussy lunch, head to Cantine del Vino già Schiavi. Find a place to perch outside, but mind the seagulls. Sit-down options include Antica Locanda Montin or the polished Palazzo Experimental. For gelato, head to Gelateria Nico on the Zattere.
Afternoon: Santa Croce and San Polo
To reach Ca’ Pesaro, hop on Line 1 from Ca’ Rezzonico or Accademia and ride to San Stae—you’ll be at the door.
- Jenny Saville at Ca’ Pesaro: This major show gathers more than 30 paintings and drawings from the 1990s to today by the acclaimed American artist. The final room features new works that were made specifically for the Venetian context, as well as paintings by the Renaissance and Baroque painters that have long inspired Saville.
- Matthew Wong, “Interiors,” at Palazzo Tiepolo Passi: This thoughtful show of the beloved late painter spotlights Wong’s poetic paintings of interior rooms and domestic settings, presented in this striking palazzo. The poignant show features over 30 paintings and works on paper made between 2015 and 2019, some of which have never been exhibited before.
- Fondazione Dries Van Noten, “The Only True Protest is Beauty” at Palazzo Pisani Moretta: Make a booking in advance. The fashion designer’s highly anticipated new Venice nonprofit presents its debut show—a lively showcase of avant-garde fashion, dazzling jewelry, fresh contemporary art, and striking design objects. The sprawling show of more than 200 works takes over 20 rooms of the impressive 15th-century palazzo.
Dinner in San Polo or San Marco
Our locals recommend a few options: There’s Antiche Carampane in San Polo, though you will need a reservation, or over in Santa Croce, you’ll find La Zucca. One of the most sought-after restaurants is also not far, Do Farai—a lauded Venetian-yet-contemporary establishment. If you’d rather head towards San Marco, hop on a vaporetto or a small traghetto boat to cross the Grand Canal and head to Vini da Arturo for classic Venetian fare.
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